Author’s Note: Dear Readers: I have good news and bad news. Let’s start with the bad news. After 13 years of reporting on my travels to Armenian communities around the world, this will be my last column.
I feel so privileged to have had the opportunity to write about my experiences. What an incredible journey for me and, maybe, for you, too. The good news is that Asbarez is planning on publishing a book—a culmination of my stories.
As I sit here, in front of my computer, I can still remember the day when it all began. Becoming a contributor at Asbarez, with my own column, has been a dream come true.
Before I start writing for Asbarez, I was writing blog posts with the help of a friend, Elise Kalfayan. It was she who suggested we start a column at Asbarez.
Soon after meeting with Editor Ara Khatchadourian, the “Community Links” column was born. However, Kalfayan, due to other obligations, had to take a step back from the work. So, I took it and ran with it.
This takes me to my last column, which I’m thrilled to share—my report on Armenians in Italy. With that, I bid you“adieu.”
BY CATHERINE YESAYAN
Am I lucky, or what? Let me begin my story.
While I was still at home, I started to plan the trajectory of my journey. One of the places that I wanted to visit in Italy was the Armenian Church in Milan.
Since I didn’t have any contacts there, I hit the internet to find out about the Armenian church in Milan, and to see if I could visit.
Through my research, I found an email address for the president of the Armenian Cultural House, the “Casa Armena—Hay Dun.” Her name was Marina Mavian. I shot her an email.
Marina’s response was quick. She said that in the months of July and August, the “Hay Dun” and the church close, as there are a few people staying in Milan during that time. She suggested another alternative: to visit the Armenian Mekhitarist Monastery of Vienna, located on the San Lazzaro Island in Venice.
After exchanging a few emails, Marina graciously offered up her summer home in Venice, on Lido Island, for three nights.
The façade of the San Lazzaro Monastery
My stay there coincided with the 81st annual Venice Film Festival, or the “Mostra del Cinema,” which is held in Lido Island each year. Thus, the island was very crowded.
I’m very grateful for Marina’s generous offer in letting me to stay at her home, and giving me the opportunity to enjoy Lido Island. She also arranged a private visit to the Mekhitarist Monastery in San Lazzaro for me.
Now a little bit about her. She was born in Venice to Armenian parents whose families had escaped the Armenian Genocide. Her paternal and maternal grandparents were from Constantinople and Izmir, respectively.
Marina’s life story harkens back to a bygone era. Her grandmother, Nevart, was born in Izmir, Turkey. Nevart met her husband, Carlo, an Italian captain of the Royal Navy of Italy, at a prestigious social event—a ball. They fell in love and were soon married. They moved to Venice where they had three children. The youngest, Augusta, is Marina’s mother.
Augusta married Girair, an Armenian whose family had narrowly escaped the Armenian Genocide. He studied in Venice at the Armenian Moorat-Raphael College. Girair and Augusta had three girls, the youngest of which is Marina.
Catherine Yesayan (left) with Marina Mavian at the latter’s home
At a young age Marina demonstrated a special talent for classical dance. She was only 14 when she was accepted to the prestigious Teatro alla Scala, a ballet school in Milan. After graduating, she worked in Germany at “Deutsche Oper am Rhein,” in Dusseldorf.
Besides being a ballerina, Marina, is an accomplished artist who paints Christian motifs in the style of Byzantine Iconoclasm. She has had several exhibitions, one of which was in Los Angeles. She also crochets and dabbles in other artforms.
Having maternal and paternal grandparents that were Armenian, the Armenian identity was ingrained into the fabric of the Mavians’ lives. In other words, there was a deep sense of Armenian-ness, as the three sisters were heavily influenced by Armenian culture and traditions while growing up in Lido. I can boldly say that her Armenian heritage has shaped her.
With my stay on Lido Island coinciding with the 81st Venice International Film Festival, I’d like to mention that, on September 6, 2024, the festival screened a documentary titled “I Will Take Revenge on the World Through Love – S. Parajanov.”
The film, co-produced by Armenia and France, received widespread acclaim. It’s a tribute to Parajanov’s legacy, while offering deep insights into today’s world.
This brings me to my main theme: Armenians in Italy.
There’s a good chance that you have heard about San Lazzaro Island and the Armenian Mekhitarist Monastery there. However, it’s less likely that you know how it all started. Here’s what I gathered about the Island.
Several buildings on the San Lazzaro Monastery property
Marina had made arrangements to meet with an Armenian monk, Fr. Hamazasb Kechichian, at the monastery so that he could provide information about the Island.
From Lido Island, where I was staying, I took the public boat to San Lazzaro Island. It took about 10 minutes to arrive there, and I quickly met Fr. Kechichian.
Let me begin to tell you about Armenian and Venetian relations. Long before tourists discovered Venice, Armenian merchants had started doing business there. It was one of the early trading capitals of Europe.
It may come as a surprise to know that it is documented that Armenian merchants arrived in Venice around the second half of the 6th century. During the following centuries, relations between Armenians and Venetians continued to grow.
The first Armenian communities in Italy were formed in Venice during the 12th century, when active trade was encouraged between Cilicia and Genoa, and Venice.
Catherine Yesayan at a canal on Lido Island
Under King Levon II, treaties allowed Italian merchants to open factories and develop industrial businesses in Cilicia. By the late 14th century, a small and thriving Armenian community existed in Venice.
During the 15th century, a process of Catholicizing Armenians in Italy began. That factor contributed to the assimilation of Armenians in that country.
Here, I’d like to name one prominent Armenian in Venice—“Anton the Armenian,” who was a carpenter, ship builder, naval officer and engineer. He is credited with the invention and construction of a special ship-mounted dredging machine designed to salvage sunken vessels and their cargoes from the waters controlled by Venice.
“Anton the Armenian” and his son fought alongside Italians in a number of naval battles against the Turkish fleet, including the famous battle of Lepanto in 1571.
Additional archived information says that Marco Polo, the famous Venetian explorer, started his long journey to Asia in 1271 from the ancient Armenian port of Ayas. The port was located near the Mediterranean Sea, in the Armenian kingdom of Cilicia (in modern day Turkey.) I’d like to add that the ruins of Ayas Castle still exist and often visited by tourists.
Also, the first-ever book printed in Armenian was done so in Venice in 1512. Today, that book is kept in a temperature-controlled glass cabinet inside the Island’s library. The book is composed mainly of Narekatsi’s mystical prayers and remedies for the sick. The prosperous Armenian community in Venice started to decline by the early 1600s.
In Venice, there was also another important component of Armenian heritage. It was the Moorat-Raphael College. The school was funded by two very wealthy Armenians from Madras, India—Samuel Mooratian and Raphael Gharamian. The school was established in 1836 and, in 1851, it was transferred to Zenobio Palace, which was built in a spectacular Baroque style in 1690.
The palace had 20,000 square meter compounds, which had ample space not only for classrooms but also a dormitory. The school provided a secular education for Armenian boys, who came to study from all around the world.
Aside from Armenian language, literature, culture and religion, the school also followed an Italian curriculum. It provided 45 scholarships per year to Armenian students in need of financial assistance. The school closed in 1997, after 160 years of serving the community.
Now, back to the Island of San Lazzaro.
Originally, during Middle Ages, the Island was a leper colony, hence the name Lazzaro, which is associated with Lazarus the patron saint of lepers. The Island was abandoned for centuries and was later given as a gift to the Armenians by the Venetian Republic.
Now, how did the island become a monastery? To explain this thoroughly, I will by telling you about a boy named Mkhitar who was born in Sivas, or Sebastia, in the Ottoman Empire in 1676.
The statue of Mkhitar Sebastatsi at the entrance of San Lazzaro Island
Mkitar was the son of a prosperous merchant, Bedros (Peter), and his wife, Sharistan. His parents made sure he was properly educated so that he could succeed the family business. However, from an early age, he chose to pursue a religious vocation.
Although his parents disagreed with his decision, Mkhitar was persistent and, finally, when he was 15 years old, he joined a monastery in the Ottoman Empire. After his admittance, Mkhitar realized that the state of monastic life was extremely low.
Mkhitar began seeking out different sources to learn the true meaning of leading a spiritual life. He traveled to various monasteries and learned from different religious scholars who promised to teach him what he sought.
During his search, Mkhirar met members of the Catholic order. While learning more about Catholicism, he felt that Italy would be the best place to immerse himself in the theological studies he longed for.
Around that time, he was inspired to create a new religious order, based on the model of the Western church, to raise the level of spiritual education for the Armenian people. This brings me to the heart of the matter.
In 1701, Mkhitar of Sivasfounded in Constantinople what would later become to be known as the Mekhitarists order. He was 26 years old.
Two years later, to escape the persecution of Ottomans, he moved to Morea, which at the time was the name of the Republic of Venice.
In 1715, the Republic of Venice gifted San Lazzaro Island to Fr. Mkhitar and his new order. They moved there and quickly began improving the island. This hard-working monastic community has thrived there ever since.
After a while, the monks established a printing press on the Island and began translating manuscripts and books to Armenian.
With all this hard work, they created a unique Armenian library, recording the history, culture and literature of the Armenian people. In the meantime, they were training young men to begin their spiritual journeys.
Today, the island is inhabited by 22 monks and is considered one of the world’s most important centers for Armenian culture, and home of the Mekhitarist order.
Now, a bit about Napoleon Bonaparte.
History says that in 1797 Napoleon arrived in Venice with his Austrian Allies and effectively took control of the Venetian Republic, thus ending 1,000 years of independence for the people of Venice.
Napoleon abolished several monasteries in Venice, because he saw them as a threat to his power. However, the Mekhitarist monastery survived, because he considered the monastery to be an academic institution.
There’s another theory that suggests that the Mekhitarist Congregation was left in peace due to intervention by Roustam Reza, who was of Armenian descent and Napoleon’s bodyguard.
Napoleon signed a decree, dated August 27, 1810, which declared that the congregation may continue to exist as an academy. Since then, San Lazzaro has also been known as an academy where young men can be trained to become priests.
The cover of a poetry book by Lord Byron
Later, the monks had another significant and important visitor. He was the English poet Lord Byron, who arrived in Venice in November 1816. The arrival of Lord Byron to the Mekhitarist Monastery has always been an intriguing theme for me.
Lord Byron was tired of the social scandals and a failed marriage. He discovered the existence of the Armenian monks in Venice through a recommendation by a friend. He visited the Island and immersed himself in the study and learning of the Armenian language. His desk can still be found at the museum.
As a “thank you” and repayment for the monks’ kindness, Byron covered the cost of printing an Armenian/English grammar book. He spent the winter of 1816 to 1817 studying Armenian and, by early 1817, he was able to translate from Armenian into English.
After meeting with Fr. Kechichian for more than an hour, a group of Armenians arrived at the Island. They were inquiring about a tour of the monastery and museum.
Fr. Kechichian suggested that I join them and take the tour of the museum. A docent directed the group into the museum/library, which consisted of interconnected, short galleries that ended in a rotunda-style climate-controlled room. The docent said that only 30 people are permitted into the museum at a time. We were a group of 25 people.
Since taking pictures was not allowed, I started to take notes. Among thousands of items, from the desk of Lord Byron to the paintings of Ayvazovsky, three things left a deep impression on me.
The first item was a small children’s book, printed in 1619. It was about four centimeters thick and had some illustrations. The book was in a locked case in the climate-controlled room. It may have been an activity book. I found it fascinating. The docent didn’t provide more information and didn’t accept any questions.
The second item was a pair of fancy women’s sandals made from real silver. They were designed to be worn in “Hamam,” or Turkish Baths. At the ends of the platform of sandals, there were short hills, to prevent the water on the ground from touching the wearer’s feet—I may call them bathroom slippers with hills.
The silver sandals on display at the San Lazzaro Monastery museum
The third item was a tarnished bronze dagger, which has a very interesting story. I did some research online and found a blog post written about it. The dagger was gifted to Fr. Alishan, who at the time was the most respected monk, as well as a well-known poet and historian, at the monastery.
In the museum archives, a note in Armenian says that the bronze dagger was a gift to Fr. Alishan from an art dealer. It is believed that the sword had been sent to the monk during the last two decades of the 19th century. In addition, the note says that the weapon was found in the town of Kavak, near Terabizon by the Black Sea.
However, the dagger was recently spotted by a visitor of the museum who was an expert in ancient Near East weaponry. The visitor realized that the dagger looked very similar to weapons found in the 4th millennium B.C., in Eastern Anatolia, in Turkey.
The small dagger on display at the San Lazzaro Monastery museum
A quick online search reveals that when the sword was analyzed by experts, they found that the metal is arsenical bronze, which means it has an alloy of copper-arsenic—often found in copper that was used to make bronze before the stronger alloy became the standard.
“[The dagger has] strong resemblance to the twin swords of Arslantepe, retrieved in a well documented context, have allowed the experts to determine that the sword dates back to around the end of 4th and the beginning of the 3rd century b.C., as well as confirming its affinity to a very rare category,” reads the blog post.
Fr. Sarafino and Vitoria Dall Armelina, who is an expert in ancient weaponry. Armelina spotted the dagger at the museum and realized that it may be about 5,000 years old
When our boat initially anchored at San Lazzaro Island, as I stepped down, I saw a large statue of Fr. Mkhitar Sebastatsi on a pedestal under the shadows of trees about 100 feet away. I thought it was a wonderful way to welcome visitors.
I had been to San Lazzaro Island once prior to my current trip, exactly 30 years ago, in 1994. However, I didn’t remember much. The only thing I could still recall was that round, step-down climate-controlled room.
I’m so glad I could come back and, this time, recorded the things that I had heard and seen.
I’d like to wrap up my report on San Lazzaro Island with the following news:
On October 17, 2024, the National Chamber Orchestra of Armenia delivered their first European concert at the Mkhitarist Monastery on San Lazzaro Island. This was the first orchestra performance ever held on this iconic island, marking a historic occasion. The concert was a premier to a European tour, organized by Maestro Sipan Olah.
The National Chamber Orchestra of Armenia and Maestro Sipan Olah performing on San Lazzaro Island
After performing on San Lazzaro Island, the musicians toured London, Cardiff, Brussels, and Cologne. Maestro Olah and the National Chamber Orchestra of Armenia offered a memorable tribute to the spirit and legacy to French-Armenian composer Charles Aznavour, and Armenian composers Komitas, Tigran Mansurian and Robert Amirkhanyan.
The European concert series was a resounding success, uniting Armenian music and its heritage with audiences across Europe.
After spending three wonderful days on Lido Island with Marina, I continued my journey to Rome. Marina called a taxi to take me to the port of Lido, where I took a water taxito “Santa Lucia”station, which was about 45 minutes away.
I had made a prior reservation to take the train from Santa Lucia to Rome. I was pleasantly surprised, because, contrary to what I had heard, the ride was enjoyable, not crowded, sparkling clean and comfortable.
Both the Santa Lucia train station and the station I arrived to in Rome looked pristine, as though they had been recently renovated. I should say it was a far cry from my last visit in 2009, when I first traveled by train in Italy.
The dome of St. Peter’s Cathedral, which Yesayan noticed on her walk to the Vatican
When I arrived in Rome, the temperature was sweltering, around 98 degrees Fahrenheit. However, the taxi services area was quite organized, and I was able to quickly find an air-conditioned taxi to take me to my Airbnb, which was in the vicinity of the Vatican.
On a personal note, I observed a shift in Italian culture this year, particularly concerning the traffic. Overall, the atmosphere looked orderly and organized, and it felt much less chaotic than my last visit.
Rome is a city to explore by foot. In the past, I had the opportunity to wander in the interlocked streets of the “Eternal City.” However, this year, because of the heatwave, all I could do was stay at my Airbnb room—sitting next to a huge fan and writing.
On the street corner of where I was staying, there was an outdoor restaurant that was open during the evening. I dined there a few times and truly felt the Italian hospitality. After a nice meal, the restaurant offered a small free shot of Limoncello. It was definitely a refreshing experience.
Catherine Yesayan with Robert Attarian at the Vatican Radio
I also had the opportunity to visit the Vatican, where Marina had arranged for me to meet with Robert Attarian. Attarian works there as a correspondent for Vatican Radio. It’s not often that one has the opportunity to meet with someone who works at the Vatican. So, I was truly delighted when Maria told me that she had arranged for us to meet.
On Monday September 2, at around 9:30 a.m., I left my room and walked to the Vatican to meet with Attarian.
The Vatican Radio was stablished in 1931, with the aim of connecting the Vatican with the Catholic world. Today, Vatican Radio covers news in 47 countries. Each country has its own office, producing updates on culture and entertainment.
The official broadcasting service of the Vatican has a staff around 355 people. It’s housed in a multilevel, massive building within a short walking distance from St. Peter’s square.
Vatican Radio produces more than 42,000 hours of simultaneous broadcasting, covering international news, religious celebrations, in-depth programs, and music. The programs are produced by over 200 journalists. Today, the programs are offered in Short-Waves, FM and online.
In 1966, Cardinal Gregor Petros Agagianian, put a lot of thought and effort into creating an Armenian section in Vatican Radio. Today, Attarian and a small group of Armenians collaborate to prepare news and manage the Armenian office at Vatican Radio.
It was a real treat to meet Attarian, visit Vatican Radio and learn a little bit about their operations and Armenians in Italy.
Attarian was born in Beirut. He was 18 when he came to Rome to study philosophy and theology at the Levonian Seminary, which a pontifical Armenian college. The Seminary was built in Rome by the order of Pope Leo XIII in 1883.
The Levonian Seminary in Rome
The Seminary is located next to the historic San Nicolas da Tolentino Church, built in 1599. In 1883, the church was gifted to the Armenian community by Pope Leo XIII.
When I was vacationing in Rome in 2009, I had the opportunity to attend the Devine Liturgy of that Armenian Catholic Church. I also visited the seminary next-door, where they offered coffee and sweets to the parishioners. The church’s architecture was majestic and magnificent inside and out. It was hard to believe that it belonged to us, Armenians.
In 2006, a memorial plaque was installed on a wall at the courtyard of the church by the municipality of Rome, in remembrance of the Armenian Genocide. A garland of fresh flowers was hung underneath the plaque. Three years later, when I visited that church, the dried garland was still on the wall.
The dried garland hung near an Armenian Genocide memorial plaque at the Armenian Catholic Church in Rome. The garland was placed in 2006 and still there when Yesayan visited in 2009 Catherine Yesayan (right) in Rome, circa 2009, at the San Nicholas da Talentino Church, which was gifted to the Armenian community in 1883
A khachkar, or stone cross, dedicated to the victims of the Armenian Genocide has also been installed at the grounds of the seminary.
Besides the Catholic Church, there’s also an order of the Armenian Apostolic Church in Rome.
Since 2009, the Vatican has granted the Armenian Apostolic Church permission to hold Devine Liturgy services at the San Biagio cathedral in Rome.
Today, the parish is served by two young and dedicated priests: Fr. Bsag Tepirjian and Fr. Athanas Sargsyan.
Church representatives visiting the khachkar at the Armenian Catholic Church in Rome
I had the opportunity to chat on the phone with Anush Torunyan, an active member of the Armenian community in Rome. She shared details about the Apostolic Parish and the Armenian Community of Rome’s cultural association, which is called “Assoarmeni.”
The Apostolic Church in Rome aims at preserving the identity of the Armenian community there. The church serves as a gathering place, offering not only spiritual support but also conveying knowledge about the history of the Armenian Church, as well as about Armenian culture and traditions.
Each Sunday, after Divine Liturgy, Armenian folk-dance lessons are held for community members. Additionally, cultural events that involve the local youth are organized during religious holidays.
The Assoarmen cultural association, was founded in 2002. Currently, it is chaired by Torunyan. Similar to the Apostolic Church, the association works to preserve the Armenian identity while simultaneously promoting the history and culture of Armenians in Italy.
A marble khachkar on display at the Vatican Museums
This endeavor is achieved through organizing conferences, exhibitions, concerts, seminars, film screenings, and book presentations in collaboration with cultural institutions in Italy, including the Armenian Embassy in Italy. The association also supports and promotes the activities of up-and-coming Armenian artists residing in Italy.
The Assoarmeni works with Armenian community organizations in Italy to raise awareness among the Italian political world and civil society about the humanitarian issues that Armenians are facing, especially during recent years.
In 2015, on the centenary of the Armenian Genocide, the Council for the Armenian Community of Rome launched the “Memoria 100” campaign. The project’s aim was to raise genocide awareness among local governments throughout Italy.
On that occasion, the Council of the Armenian Community of Rome sent a letter to the major Italian municipalities and attached a sample of a basic resolution, urging with representatives to present the resolution at an assembly session, and to submit it for evaluation and subsequent voting by those present.
As I’ve mentioned before, there is considerable evidence of a long-standing presence of Armenians in Italy, dating back to ancient Roman. However, today the number of Armenians have decreased, and it’s estimated to be less than 5,000. These Armenians are spread throughout the cities of Rome, Milan, Venice and Padua.
While I was doing research on Armenians in Italy, I came across recent news about a marble khachkar—typical Armenian medieval art—which was spotted in the Vatican Museums
The khachkar was erected by the Armenian community of Rome in 1246. However, new research has revealed that the khachkar came from the monastery of the Holy Apostles of Mush, near Lake Van, most likely during Middle Ages.
Catherine Yesayan
With this, I conclude not only my report of Italy but also my travels to Armenian communities in the diaspora, which I have undertaken since 2011. I hope you’ve enjoyed the stories—blended with insights, twists and turns—that I’ve brought to you. Thank you for coming along for the ride and joining me in my journey.
Catherine Yesayan is a regular contributor to Asbarez, with her columns appearing under the “Community Links” heading. She can be reached at cyesayan@gmail.com.
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