While researching the history of coffee in honor of International Coffee Day to be celebrated on October 1, I was amazed to discover that during our visits to European cafés in Vienna and Paris, my husband and I were unaware that the first coffee houses in these cities were founded by Armenian men. Now, I wonder if the historic cafés we frequented were near or even on the original sites dating back to the late 17th century!
As a devoted coffee lover, I was delighted to learn that Armenians have played a significant role in the history of coffee in Europe as both traders and business owners. One such pioneer was an Armenian named Pascal Harutiun, who opened the first coffee shop in Paris, Café Procope, in 1672. He also established the first coffee shops in London (1652), Venice and Holland.
According to the 100 Years Facts Project, Johannes Diodato, born Hovhanness Astvatsatour (meaning “God-given”), opened Vienna’s first coffee house in 1685 in one of the city’s most bustling areas. Another Armenian, Deomatus Damajian (or Dajamanus), opened the first coffee shop in Prague, called Zlateho Hada or “Golden Snake.” According to the article Coffee: A Cup of History by Nayiri Partamian published by the ANCA, this establishment, founded in 1714, introduced the novelty of coffee to Prague as Dajamanus sold it to passersby outside the café.
Enjoying coffee in Vienna, 2017 (Photo courtesy of the author)
Today, Armenians continue to celebrate their rich coffee tradition. In Ashtarak, Armenia, Pascal and Diodato Café honors the legacies of Harutiun “Pascal” and Astvatsatour “Diodato.” From lively cafés in Yerevan to Armenian communities in the diaspora and in personal homes, Armenian coffee, known as soorj, serves as a nostalgic reminder of family gatherings and warm hospitality.
For three generations, Henry’s House of Coffee has been perfecting the art of making soorj. Founder Henry Kalebjian recalls, “My roasting roots began in Lebanon, where my father owned a bakery and served coffee to the locals.” You can watch Kalebjian make Armenian coffee in this video. His son and proud co-owner Hrag Kalebjian was kind enough to share their family recipe for Armenian coffee:
How to make Armenian coffee:
- Measure out two demitasse cups of water and add to the coffee pot (called jazzve).
- Scoop two heaping teaspoons of Armenian coffee and add to the coffee pot.
- Place the coffee pot on your stove burner on medium heat and stir for 10 seconds.
- Keep an eye on the coffee as this step can happen quickly. A thick cream will start to form. Once you notice the coffee starting to rise, remove it from the burner and place it on the counter.
- Tap the base of the pot on the counter three times, then place back on the burner.
- Repeat step four from above, but keep in mind the coffee will rise faster this time around.
- Turn off your burner and let the coffee rest for 10 seconds.
- Slowly fill each cup halfway to assure even distribution.
- Starting back at the first cup, fill each with the remaining coffee and enjoy!
Armenian coffee recently gained global attention when CNN Underscored featured Serj Tankian, lead singer of System of a Down, who opened Kavat Coffee Café in Los Angeles. The café combines cultural traditions with modern flavors, offering a fun twist with coffee cup readings.
How to read your Armenian coffee cup:
Kavat Coffee Café advises that after you’ve finished sipping from your cup, flip it over by rotating it away from your body, place it upside down on your saucer and wait a few minutes. Over the next few minutes, the grounds will cascade down the inside of the cup, forming various shapes and patterns. These grounds are then interpreted by a seasoned cup reader, such as an Armenian grandmother, who uses them to reveal insights about your future. Many Armenians fondly recall growing up listening to these stories that would sometimes eerily come true. For a humorous look at this tradition, watch Tankian’s friends react to fortune-telling in this video.
Celebrate Armenian coffee on International Coffee Day
The theme for 2024 International Coffee Day is “Embracing Collaboration for Collective Action.” The goal is to celebrate the power of collaboration by enjoying a cup of coffee and sharing stories of what coffee means to you. This October 1, join me in raising a cup and sharing the tales you’ve learned from this article or your own cherished memories of coffee rituals with loved ones. Plus, why not add hashtag #ICD2024 to promote and recognize Armenian coffee on social media.
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